 Choosing a puppy:
Physical appearance and behavior
A healthy puppy will have no discharge from the ears or nose and will have clear eyes. The puppy’s gums should not be pale as this may signal anemia. The teeth and limbs should be straight and the puppy should appear to have a healthy bodyweight. You should be able to see both testicles in a male puppy. The abdomen should not be extended and there should be no signs of abdominal tenderness as that may indicate a protozoan parasite disease such as coccidiosis, an inadequate diet, a urinary tract or bladder problem or another serious complication. Black specks in the coat may be flea droppings.
The puppy should be playful and have lots of energy. You want a puppy that doesn’t mind being handled and enjoys the attention. If you have children, it’s a good idea to bring them along to see how the puppy reacts to them. Be wary of a puppy that acts either too aggressively by growling or rough biting or is very timid or withdrawn. You can snap your fingers near the puppy and move your hand to test the puppy’s hearing and eyesight.
What to look for in a breeder
A good breeder really loves dogs and is not breeding dogs for the money alone. Look for a breeder who has socialized the mother and puppies by having them used to everyday sounds such as from time spent daily in a kitchen or family room. Studies have shown that puppies used to being touched by different people on a regular basis and exposed to everyday sounds have better brain development and immune system development as well as better socialization skills with both humans and other animals. The breeder should be forthcoming about showing a vaccination record for the mother and about discussing the puppy’s diet with you. You must be given official papers if you are buying a purebred puppy from a breeder.
The mother’s role in immunization
The first few weeks of a puppy’s life is called the neonatal period and the pups stay with their mother and siblings and their eyes not even opened yet. By 3 weeks of age, the puppy is starting to develop hearing, vision and their teeth are starting to grow. Puppies who drink their mother’s milk right after birth receive immunity to diseases. However, the mother must have been vaccinated against those diseases for the puppy to receive immunity.
The mother’s role in socialization
Between 4-7 weeks of age, the puppy learns social skills from the mother such as the dog that looks away first has agreed that the other dog is the leader. The puppy learns to submit to the mother’s dominance as the pack leader. The puppy learns not only from the mother but from siblings as well. The mother communicates with the puppies and growls in different tones to get the puppies to do what she wants such as to stay near her or to be gentle when feeding. The puppy needs adequate socialization with the mother and siblings. If the puppy is taken from the mother too soon, the puppy is likely to engage in excess barking, biting and impulsiveness.
When the puppy can be taken from the mother
Although the puppy can be taken from the mother between 6-10 weeks of age, 8 weeks is often considered the best time. By 8 weeks, the puppy has had adequate time to learn the necessary social skills from the mother and the puppy’s basic personality and temperament is developed. Choosing an 8 week old puppy rather than a younger one can give you a much better idea of what his or her adult temperament is likely to be. The puppy should never be taken from the mother before 6 weeks of age.
 Bringing the puppy home
Preparing a positive, safe environment
You should create a positive, easygoing and safe environment for the puppy with socialization with people and other animals – including guests to your home. A well-socialized puppy becomes a dog with a good disposition. The puppy should never be yelled at or forced to do something, but should be led and nurtured by you and your family. Give the puppy time to adjust to new people, animals and situations.
Watch for hazards in the home and yard that may harm your puppy and keep them out of reach. Chocolate and alcohol should never be given to dogs and can be deadly. Vomiting, diarrhea and muscle twitches are some symptoms of chocolate poisoning. A sudden wobbly gait is a sign of alcohol ingestion/poisoning. Plants, flowers and fertilizers are often very poisonous and fatal to dogs. Swallowing difficulties and/or swelling of the throat can be signs of plant or pesticide poisoning. Bleeding from the nose and gums can be caused by rat poison as well as cancer or Von Willebrand disease.
The puppy as part of your pack
Body language is important when communicating with a puppy. The puppy has just learned social behavior from his or her mother and siblings. Dogs think in a pack mentality and your family is your puppy’s new pack. It’s important to establish your puppy’s place in your family right from the first day you bring the puppy home. Everyone in the family, including children, must consistently reinforce your puppy’s place in your pack. The puppy should enter a doorway last, after your children, and all members of the family should keep eye contact with the puppy while speaking in a positive, soothing tone.
Never leave children unsupervised when playing with the puppy. It can’t be stressed enough that pack order must be constantly followed so that your puppy learns his or her place in the family. You’ll have a better-adjusted dog as a result. Never allow tug-of-war games or aggressive play with the puppy either. If things get out of hand and the puppy is growling or nipping it’s time to stop the play. Fetch and retrieval games are usually much better for helping your puppy adjust to your family.
The first night
The puppy, used to sleeping with his or her mother and siblings, will probably not enjoy sleeping alone in a strange, new place. Decide ahead of time where the new puppy will sleep and prepare a comfortable, safe area. Soft blankets and a few toys can help make the area more inviting to your puppy. You also need to think about what the puppy’s routine will be as a routine will help the puppy eventually adjust to bedtime without a fuss. Perhaps you’ll want to signal the end of the puppy’s day by playtime, a walk in the backyard and a few treats. Once the puppy has been put down for the night, it’s important to respond to any resistance to bedtime with a firm, but positive stance that it’s bedtime.
 Vaccinations against disease:
How often should puppies be vaccinated?
A puppy’s vaccination schedule will vary according to your veterinarian’s assessment of your puppy’s needs, but most veterinarians recommend vaccinations at 6 weeks, 9 weeks, 12 weeks, 15 weeks and then a booster shot on the puppy’s first birthday.
Core vaccinations and the diseases they protect against
All dogs should get the core vaccinations recommended by their veterinarian and/or the American Veterinary Medical Association (AVMA), including rabies, distemper, hepatitis and parvovirus vaccinations.
RABIES
Rabies is a deadly virus and all dogs should have the rabies vaccine. The “foaming mouth” that many of us think of when we think of a dog with rabies is excess salivation caused by the stage of rabies in which the dog’s throat and mouth become paralyzed and the saliva builds up. Seizures, coma and death often occur in the late stages of rabies.
CANINE DISTEMPER
Canine distemper is a fatal viral disease with coughing as a common early symptom. Pus-filled eyes, loss of appetite, avoidance of water, fever, lethargy, vomiting and diarrhea are other signs of canine distemper. Seizures and walking in circles may also be symptoms of distemper.
CANINE HEPATITIS
Canine hepatitis is a deadly viral disease that can cause bloody diarrhea, coughing and increased thirst and urination. Abdominal tenderness may occur in severe cases of canine hepatitis.
PARVOVIRUS
Parvovirus can be fatal and affects the gastrointestinal system. Vomiting, bloody diarrhea and lethargy may occur in dogs infected with parvovirus.
Non-core vaccinations and the diseases they protect against
Your vet can recommend which, if any, other vaccinations your puppy should have. Recommended non-core vaccinations depend on lifestyle and location. Some non-core vaccinations that your vet may recommend include:
BORDETELLA (KENNEL COUGH)
Bordetella can cause kennel cough, or canine bronchitis. The coughing is the main symptom and is unproductive, or dry. Bordetella is common in dogs, but fairly rare in cats.
LEPTOSPIROSIS
Leptospirosis is a bacterial infection that causes joint and muscle pain as well as liver and kidney problems. Reluctance to move, vomiting, back pain and loss of appetite are often present in cases of leptospirosis. Shaking and shivering may also occur.
LYME DISEASE
Lyme disease is caused by ticks. Bleeding under the skin due to irritation may occur in cases of Lyme disease. Fever, swollen joints, loss of appetite, enlarged lymph nodes and reluctance to move may be other symptoms of Lyme disease.
ADENOVIRUS 2
Adenovirus 2 can cause a type of kennel cough, or canine bronchitis. A veterinarian may decide to vaccinate a dog against adenovirus 2 if the dog runs loose with other dogs such as hunting dogs.
PARAINFLUENZA
Parainfluenza is very bad for a dog’s respiratory system. Unproductive, or dry, coughing is the main symptom, but discharge from the eyes and nose and a loss of appetite can also occur in cases of parainflluenza.
CORONAIRUS
Coronavirus causes viral diarrhea and vomiting. Coronavirus can harm the intestinal tract in puppies and dogs.
Do the vaccinations pose any risks to the puppy?
There is a chance that the dog could still get the disease he or she is vaccinated against, but if a proper vaccination schedule recommended by your veterinarian is followed, it is unlikely. The risk of an unvaccinated dog getting a disease is far greater. The puppy may experience mild pain at the site of the shot and/or loss of appetite and lethargy. Your veterinarian should be contacted right away if the dog shows signs of an allergic reaction such as swelling of the body, itchiness, diarrhea, vomiting, collapse or labored breathing.
Spaying and neutering:
When should puppies be spayed or neutered?
The earliest a puppy can be spayed or neutered is at 2 months of age with at least 2 lbs. minimum body weight. Puppies should be spayed or neutered before 6 months of age before the female goes into heat. Both females and males are less likely to experience complications if spaying or neutering is done before 6 months of age. Your veterinarian should be consulted to advise you of the best time to spay or neuter your puppy.
What happens in the operation?
The veterinarian performs spaying and neutering procedures and the dogs are given general anesthesia. The ovaries and uterus are removed from the female in spaying and the testicles are removed from the male in neutering. The surgery is very common and just a few days of recovery is usually needed by the animal.
Will spaying or neutering affect the puppy’s behavior, weight or activity level?
Most cases of spaying and neutering will have no noticeable affect on the puppy. If anything, the puppy may be more obedient because of a lessened desire to roam. If a puppy gains weight or is less active, that is usually not at all related to spaying or neutering and is likely to be caused by diet and exercise issues.
Medical benefits of spaying or neutering to the puppy
Studies have shown that male puppies neutered by 6 months of age have less chance of both prostate disease and testicular cancer. Female puppies that are spayed by 6 months of age were shown to have a much lower chance of breast cancer and uterine infections.
 Behavior and training:
Typical stages of puppy behavior and your role as the pack leader
8 - 11 WEEKS – Classes with other puppies (and humans) are often considered a great idea at this stage since the first vaccination will have been given and the interaction with other puppies and humans will reinforce the socialization lessons the puppy has learned from his or her mother and siblings. Lessons the puppy learns at this age are thought to stay with the dog throughout adulthood. For example, if a puppy is stung by a bee at this stage, the puppy may be afraid of anything like a bee such as a fly for the rest of his or her life. Try to keep training as positive for the puppy as possible and provide as much affectionate protection and calm leadership for your puppy as you can.
12 – 16 WEEKS – Puppies may be a bit rebellious at this stage and quite headstrong. They are still trying to understand their exact role in your human pack at this stage and may try to advance in the pack. Watch for more dominant behavior such as growling, not listening to your directives and taking the leash. Continue to supervise children with the dog so that the pack order is kept consistent. Keep the puppy on a leash and keep the puppy going through all doorways after adults and children. Be sure all family members keep eye contact with the puppy and speak to the puppy in a calm, positive tone of leadership.
4 – 8 MONTHS – Your puppy may be quite independent at this stage and may not want to listen to your commands to stay nearby. Keeping a leash on the puppy is crucial for both leadership and pack reinforcement. What you do with your puppy in this stage will most likely last the dog’s lifetime, so you want to direct the dog to obey your commands and use the leash to control the puppy. You can use rewards such as treats, but remember that your calm guidance and affection is also a positive reward for the puppy. Play with the puppy, but don’t tolerate the dog to wander off and not respond to you calling his or her name. You must use the leash to show the puppy you’re the dominant pack member. Appreciate your puppy’s high energy level and need for new adventures at this stage by running with the dog on outings.
9 – 12 MONTHS – Your puppy is now is adolescence to young adulthood. More training classes may be a good idea at this stage as your puppy gets ready for adulthood. Fears may develop earlier and even at this stage as well. It’s important as the pack leader to not be either over-nurturing or over-controlling with your puppy as you don’t want to encourage the fearful behavior, but you also don’t want the dog to think he or she has something to be fearful of if it’s not the case. The best approach is to remain as calm and as positive as possible to help the dog move on from the fearful situation. .
Housetraining and crate training
Crate training is the concept of having the puppy used to an indoor, comfortable crate to keep the puppy safe as well as to help you control the puppy from chewing your things. A small room in the home can also be used, but the idea here is not to punish or leave the dog alone. The dog may be left in the crate for safety if you are out of the room, but check with your veterinarian or trainer so that you don’t exceed the recommended times to leave your puppy in the crate or small room alone. Dogs, especially puppies need frequent drinks of water.
Crate training is often used when housetraining, or housebreaking, a puppy since a dog’s natural instinct is to not soil where they sleep. Crate training should not be used for puppies under 9 weeks of age. Keep in mind that puppies 4 months and younger often need to urinate at least 10 times a day. If you are taking the puppy outside often, but still find he or she is wetting the bedding in the crate, you can try taking the bedding out of the crate until the puppy stops doing that. Never force the puppy into the crate. Toys and dog treats can be placed near the back of the crate as pleasant surprises for your puppy to discover.
Fleas and parasites:
How fleas and parasites affect dogs
Some parasites such as the protozoan coccidiosis affect a puppy’s intestinal tract. Heartworm damages a dog’s respiratory system and lungs and can be deadly. Ticks irritate the skin and cause diseases such as Lyme’s disease and Rocky Mountain spotted fever. Ectoparasites such as sarcoptes scabiel and cheyletiella irritate the skin and produce itchy skin lesions. Ear mites cause ear infections, while flea bites can cause skin allergies known as flea bite dermatitis in dogs allergic to flea saliva.
Signs of fleas and parasites to watch for
Black specks in the coat may be flea droppings that signal an infestation of fleas. Signs of flea bite dermatitis include chewing near the base of the tail and/or scratching and rubbing of the body. A brown, foul smelling discharge from the ears is often a sign of ear mites. You may notice bleeding under the skin when ticks are present, while occasional coughing is a common sign of heartworm. Diarrhea, bloody stools, lethargy, weight loss and vomiting may occur in internal parasitic infections due to the irritation to the intestinal tract.
 Feeding:
What should the puppy eat?
Consult with your veterinarian as to what your puppy should be eating. Let your veterinarian know what the breeder had been feeding the dog. Your veterinarian my recommend dry kibble or wet food for your puppy or a combination of both. Treat bones that are good for the teeth are often recommended by vets to help clean the puppy’s teeth. Extra vitamin supplements are not usually required unless your veterinarian feels your puppy needs them.
How many meals should the puppy have daily?
Your veterinarian can instruct you on how many meals and how much food your puppy should be eating at one time. Feeding amounts depend on the dog’s size and activity level. The amounts and ages below are a guideline only and your vet should be consulted so that your puppy’s exact nutritional needs are met.
6 – 12 WEEKS – 4 meals daily
3 – 6 MONTHS – 3 meals daily
7 – 9 MONTHS – 2 meals daily
10 MONTHS – 1 YEAR AND UP – 1 meal daily
What to watch for
Discharge of food from the nose may indicate a cleft or damaged palate. Gastrointestinal upset such as diarrhea may be a sign of a food allergy or a reaction to a change in diet. You should keep track of your dog’s responses to food and consult your veterinarian promptly, especially in cases of chronic vomiting or blood in the stools. From a behavioral aspect, you should train your puppy to sit calmly for his or her food to stress your leadership in the pack.
Grooming:
Brushing
Puppies are not too young to be brushed. A brush with bristles on one side and metal spokes on the other side works well on both long coated and short coated puppies. Brushing helps distribute the oils in the coat and removes loose hair.
Bathing
Puppies can be bathed once a week. You should use only a gentle shampoo made for puppies and take care to avoid getting shampoo in the puppy’s eyes. Dogs can enjoy bathing if it is started when they are puppies and is a calm enjoyable experience. The water should be warm, but not hot and the shampoo should be rinsed well. Towel dry the puppy and keep him or her warm while the coat dries.
Teeth brushing
Many veterinarians recommend starting to brush the puppy’s teeth between 8-12 weeks of age to avoid periodontal disease. Only 30 seconds of brushing can help ensure healthy teeth and gums. Your veterinarian can recommend dog toothpaste and brushes. Never use human toothpaste or toothbrushes on a dog’s teeth.
Nail trimming
The puppy’s nails should be trimmed regularly such as once a month or when you notice they are getting long. Just the white tips should be cut and not the pink part of the nail as that may hurt the puppy.
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